about-fabrics

COTTON Cotton's rise to global importance came about as a result of the cultural transformation of Europe and Britain's trading empire. Calico and chintz, types of cotton fabrics, became popular in Europe, and by 1664 the East India Company was importing a quarter of a million pieces into Britain. By the 18th century, the middle class had become more concerned with cleanliness and fashion, and there was a demand for easily washable and colorful fabric. Wool continue d to dominate the European markets, but cotton prints were introduced to Britain bythe East India Company in the 1690s. Imports of calicoes, cheap cotton fabrics from Kozhikode, then known as Calicut, in India, found a mass market among the poor. By 1721 these calicoes threatened British manufacturers, and Parliament passed the Calico Act that banned calicoes for clothing or domestic purposes. In 1774 the act was repealed with the invention of machines that allowed for British manufacturers to compete with Eastern fabrics.

A spinning jenny, originally invented by James Hargreaves Cotton's versatility allowed it to be combined with linen and be made into velvet. It was cheaper than silk and could be imprinted more easily than wool, allowing for patterned dresses for women. It became the standard fashion and, because of its price, was accessible to the general public. New invention s in the 1 770s—such as the spinning jenny, the water frame, and the spinning mule—made the British Midlands into a very profitable manufacturing centre. In 1794–1796, British cotton goods accounted for 15.6% of Britain's exports, and in 1804–180 6 grew to 42.3%.

The British commercial empire grew the cotton industry enormously. British cotton products were successful in European markets, constituting 40.5% of exports in 1784–1 786. Britain's success was also due to its trade with its own colonies, whose settlers maintained British identities, and thus, fashions. With the growth of the cotton industry, manufacturers had to find new sources of raw cotton, and cultivation was expanded to West India. High tariffs against Indian textile workshops, British power in India through the East India Company, and British restrictions on Indian cotton imports transformed India from the source of textiles to a source of raw cotton. Cultivation was also attempted in the Caribbean and West Africa, but these attempts failed due to bad weather and poor soil. The Indian subcontinent was looked to as a possible source of raw cotton, but intra- imperial conflicts and economic rivalries prevented the area from producing the necessary supply.

The Lancashire textile mills were major parts of the British industrial revolution. Their workers had poor working condition s: low wages, child-labour, and 18-hour work days. Richard Arkwright created a textile empire by building a factory system powered by water, which was occasionally raided by the Luddites, weavers put out of business by the mechanization of textile production. In the 1790s, James Watt's steam power was applied to textile production, and by 1839 200,000 children worked in Manchester's cotton mills. Karl Marx, who frequently visited Lancashire, may have been influenced by the conditions of workers in these mills in writing Das Kapital.

NET Net or netting is any textile in which the yarns are looped or knotted at their intersections, resulting in a fabric with open spaces between the yarns. Net has many uses, and come in different varieties. Depending on the type of yarn or filament that is used to make up the textile, its characteristics can vary from durable to not durable.

USES : People use net for many different occupations. Netting is one of the key components to fishing in mass quantities. This textile is used because of its sturdy yet flexible origin, which can carry weight yet, still be lightweight and compactable. Fisherman use netting when trawling, because it is sturdy enough to carry large amounts of weight as fish are trapped, pulled, then lifted out of water. Oftentimes, the filaments that make up the yarn are coated with wax or plastic. This coating adds a waterproof component to the textile that provides even more reliability. Net is also used in medical practices to provide fabric insulation and wrapping under an industry standard sling. In the medical practice, netting provides cushion and protection, when used in layers, but still allows the skin to breathe under the fabric. Depending on what the netting is being used for, a different wax or plastic coating can be applied in order to cover the filaments that use up the yarn. Filaments can be made from synthetic or natural fibres, but that is all up to the manufacturer when deciphering what the textiles future entails. When netting is going to be exposed to water or heat often, manufacturers consider that and apply what best fits that textile. Net is commonly used in camping tents. Air can easily pass through the holes, which allows breathability that doesn't trap bacteria, and remain impermeable to pests and insects. Netting is often used for luggage bags to create transparent, breathable compartmentsthat allow people to store items. Netting has many similar component s to mesh, as they both allow air to pass through easily, and share a lot of the same uses. Bigger woven knits have varying different uses, and smaller, tighter woven knits are varied as well

GEORGETTE Georgette is named after French dressmaker of 20th century Madame Georgette de la Plante. Its known use wasn't until 1915.

Properties: - It is strong and more durable. - Crinkly texture, harsh, high twist. - It is made of filament yarns. - Balanced Plain weave. - Light weight sheer fabric not opaque fabric.

How to take care of georgette : - Hand wash, it with cold water using a mild detergent and avoid stretching it while washing. - Keep away from sunlight when drying georgette as it fades if, exposed to sunlight for long periods. Dryer should also be avoided. Air drying is the best option. - Read the tag for cleaning instructions as some recommends dry cleaning.

Varieties of georgette (there are many verities of georgette we are just listing a few) :
- Silk georgette fabric (1).
- Polyester georgette fabric (2).
- Nylon georgette fabric (3).
- Viscose georgette fabric (4).
- Satin georgette fabric (5)
- Jacquard georgette fabric (6).
Double georgette fabric is heavier.

How it is made: It is made with crepe weave of alternating two ends of right- hand with two ends of left- hand hard twist yarns. Both S and Z twist yarns are used in warp and weft.

How to sew: Practice with a cheaper variety of georgette like polyester georgette, first. It is generally recommended to not use pins as it leaves holes but I realized that it's not that visible unless you're using a lot of them. You can use weights instead of pins while cutting the fabric to avoid the fabric to move as it is very slippery. Rolled hem looks best on georgette . Do not interlock very close to the seam. Smaller sized sewing machine needles are recommended. Loosen the needle thread tension when working on georgette .

Difference between chiffon and georgette : - Georgette is springier than chiffon - Georgette is less lustrous than chiffon - Georgette is more opaque than chiffon - Chiffon has a softer finish. - Chiffon is lighter than georgette . - Chiffon has smaller yarns in high twist.

Reasons why we like it : Reasons why we like it : - The fabric has a playful flowing look. - It drapes well on the body. - It looks delicate and feminine. - It is a strong fabric. - It can be dyed easily. - It is very pliable. It is available at different rates according to their purity and as far as we can tell, it's a slightly different.

CHANDERY Chanderi, which is amongst the best known handloom clusters, occupies a special place because of its centuries old weaving specialty of producing finely textured fabrics of silk and cotton embellished with zari woven work, and more specifically because of its saris that have been patronize d by royalty. Chanderi is known to have its origin back in the Vedic Period, and is believed to have founded by Lord Krishna's cousin, Shishupal . The Chanderi produces three kinds of fabrics: Pure Silk, Chanderi Cotton and Silk Cotton. The motifs have come a long way from the traditional coin, floral and peacocks to the geometrics. ChanderiSaree, a product intricately woven by hand interspersed with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs that has for times immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of the royalty.

Situating between the hills of Vindhyachal in the state of Madhya Pradesh in the Ashok Nagar district, North of Madhya Pradesh (MP), evolution of Chanderi began in 1890's when the weavers changed from handspun yarn to mill made yarn. In the year 1910, the royal family of Scindia brought the Chanderisaree under their patronage and during that period gold thread motif made its presence in the main body of the cotton muslin saree for the first time. It further led to the introduction of the silk yarn and over the years dobby and jacquard use came into existence. Keeping in view the changing demand scenario, in 1970's, the cluster went forward to weave yet another variety of fabric which combined a silk warp with a cotton weft. Some of the various beautifull y striking motifs include 'Nalferma , 'Dandidar , 'Chatai', 'Jangla', Mehndi wale haath' etc. With around 3,500 looms in working condition, 18,000 people are directly or indirectly dependent on the industry for their living.

Today, blessed with a mix or traditional and modern techniques and deft skills of weavers honed by institutional supports, Chanderi stands out as excellence in every sense.
The Chanderi fabrics are known for their sheer texture, light weight and a glossy transparency that setsthem apart from textiles produced en masse in factories.

Traditionally, the fabric was woven using very fine hand spun yarn, which accounted for its delicate texture. So its quality, designs colors and motifs would be appropriate to cater the demands of an elite class family.

Chanderi was always woven using handspun cotton warps and wefts. It was spun as fine as 300 counts, and was as prized amongst cotton fabrics as the famed muslins of Dhaka. However, the Industrial Revolution sounded the first death knell on this beautiful textile. The British imported cheaper 120 to 200 count cotton from Manchester, which greatly eroded the market for the more expensive Chanderi cloth.

In the 1930s, Chanderi weavers discovered Japanese silk. They began substituting this in the warps in cotton sarees, and also developed a silk- by-silk variety in which their profit margins were higher. As a result, today, it is difficult to find a genuine cotton-by- cotton Chanderisaree in retail establishments. The problem of sourcing authentic Chanderi has been exacerbated by the development of many look-alikes available at cheaper rates.